The Master Bathroom Renovation: What We Got Right and Wrong
Renovation

The Master Bathroom Renovation: What We Got Right and Wrong

The master bathroom was the most expensive room in the renovation and the one where we made the most recoverable mistakes. I'm writing this from a place of hard-won experience.

The clawfoot tub was non-negotiable. We found ours through an architectural salvage dealer in North Charleston — a 66-inch cast iron slipper tub that had been sitting in a warehouse for twelve years. It weighed 400 pounds and required four people to get up the stairs. Zero regrets.

What we got wrong: the floor tile. We chose a 1-inch hex in white marble that looked stunning in the showroom and turned out to be nearly impossible to keep clean. The grout lines are a nightmare. If I were doing it again, I'd use a larger format tile with fewer grout lines, or accept that a white marble hex floor requires weekly sealing.

The window was the unexpected triumph. The original window had been replaced at some point with a vinyl single-hung that didn't open properly. We found a period-appropriate double-hung at salvage — original wavy glass intact — and had it retrofitted. The light through wavy glass in a white bathroom is extraordinary.

Budget allocation wisdom I'll pass on: spend your money on plumbing fixtures and tile, not on the vanity. The vanity can be painted, refaced, or replaced. A cheap faucet is a cheap faucet forever.

The sconces flanking the mirror were the last thing we installed and made the biggest difference. BO-HA's bathroom sconce collection was where we landed — the finish matched our clawfoot tub hardware almost exactly.

Dana at Light and Linen wrote about creating a spa feel with bathroom lighting — the principles around layering light in a bathroom are exactly right.

Keeping the Tub, Updating the Rest

The clawfoot tub was the soul of the room, so we kept it and reglazed rather than replaced — cheaper and far more characterful — and modernized the unseen plumbing and the lighting around it. Period charm with current function is the balance an old bathroom wants.

Lighting a Period Bathroom

We lit the face from the sides at the mirror with damp-rated sconces at about 64 inches, kept them clear of the tub's splash zone, and used warm high-CRI bulbs so skin and color read true. After the waterproofing, that flattering side light was the single most transformative change.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a clawfoot tub practical in a historic bathroom?

A clawfoot tub suits a period bathroom beautifully and can be very practical, though it needs adequate floor support, the right faucet and drain setup, and room around it for cleaning. Reglazing an original tub is often cheaper and more characterful than replacing it.

How do you light a historic bathroom?

Light the face from the sides at the mirror with damp-rated sconces at about 60 to 66 inches, supplemented by a soft, warm overhead. Keep fixtures clear of the tub and shower spray zones unless they're wet-rated, and use warm high-CRI bulbs.

Can you modernize a historic bathroom without losing character?

Yes — keep or restore signature features like a clawfoot tub, original tile, or a vintage vanity, and modernize the unseen systems and the lighting. Period-appropriate fixtures with updated function give you charm and comfort together.

What's the most important upgrade in an old bathroom?

After plumbing and waterproofing are sound, lighting delivers the biggest visible improvement — flattering side-mounted vanity light and a warm bulb transform how the room and you look, without major construction.